Calliope Cruise: April 10, 2020 Pipe Creek, Exumas, Bahamas

The rock iguana stalks

Our 86^th consecutive night at anchor and 258^th day since leaving Traverse City

So much has happened in the past few weeks, every day bringing new government regulations, alarming statistics and sad news. When Dietrich and I met over three decades ago he introduced me to the music of John Prine. It had carried him on a cross-country adventure in the ‘70s and has always been part of our music culture as a couple. John Prine died two nights ago, the result of Covid-19.

The Bahamian government has regularly updated its regulations for social distancing and changes to daily living. Generally, cruisers have been included in the expectations, but specifics about our intra-island travel and access to fuel, water, and groceries have varied almost daily. Many of us are heading for Florida but must consider safe routes that include some access to essential services and, a major concern, weather. At this point, we want to emphasize how much we appreciate the Bahamian government’s excellent efforts. Information has been well researched and shared in an articulate manner. The attitude has been respectful and compassionate toward all of us.

Cruisers practicing proper Social Distancing on Little Darby Island

We left George Town on March 23^rd, sailing about 25 miles to Williams Bay off Lee Stocking Island. The next seven days were spent in that area, swimming, snorkeling and hiking hilly trails. A day trip to the locally named Jacuzzi Cay was a highlight. It was rocky with sand beaches and came with several spectacular blowholes that were active even at low tide. Swimming in the resulting pool was a hoot! We are easily entertained. At some point, we came across Barb and Miles on New Horizon. We loosely tied our dinghies together and floated at least ½ a mile down the Bay as we caught up on travels since we last met New Year’s Eve. It was social distancing at its finest. We spent the last night anchored off the recently abandoned Perry Institute of Marine Science. The buildings have been cleared but remain open. We explored the campus for hours and left saddened by the loss of such a useful research facility.

The Jacuzzi, south of Boysie Cay

Coconut Beach on Lee Stocking Island

We continued north to the remote Little Darby Island where water was the clearest we have seen, conchs were delicious and a Grunt or two grilled nicely. The Darby Island Marine Research Station was located near our anchorage (Flower Pot Bay) and the Deja Vu crew (Erich and Marta) was doing some work on site. We were the only two boats in that area for a week so keeping socially distanced was not hard. We spent hours hiking (turns out that Erich is a first class beach comber), snorkeling, spear fishing, sharing stories and conjuring fantasies about future feasts we hope to prepare in Michigan. Each evening at sunset, there was the traditional blowing of the conch shells. Eric and Dietrich have made enough horns to outfit an octet and the sound is haunting (I mean that in the most complimentary way). We also managed to dance on the beach to the music of Doc Watson, thanks to Erich’s MP3 player.

Erich cleaning conch for dinner

The Little Darby Research Station

The Castle on Big Darby Island

Deja Vu in the Flowerpot between the Darbies

Deja Vu Crew, Erich and Marta

About 1/2 mile distant was Goat Cay, a private retreat owned by Faith Hill and Tim McGraw. We heard no country music wafting across the water so we assumed it was vacant during the current lock down. In the other direction Rudder Cut Cay and Musha Cay housed a sprawl of beautiful homes owned by David Copperfield. We enjoyed his quirky imagination when we visited the stainless steel replica of a grand piano (complete with mermaid) sunk in 15 feet of clear water just off shore. While these islands are private and developed, their visual impact is low key, certainly appreciated in an otherwise remote area of the Exumas.

David Copperfield's The Mermaid sculpture

The Mermaid

Tune a fish

Lousy Acoustics

As we sailed north, Dietrich let seawater evaporate for flake salt to top his bread. We reluctantly broke a 12-day quarantine from close human contact and places other than remote islands to refuel and restock. Grocery shopping at Staniel Cay was minimal and tricky while wearing rubber gloves and a mask. There were no fresh greens, no potatoes, no meat and shelves were no more than half full with a slim collection of canned and boxed food. The locals were kind but we knew that sharing meager resources with us was a concern. One night in the Staniel Cay anchorage gave us a chance to have dinghy-to-boat visits with our Aussie friends, Stephen and Toni on Albacora, and with Paula and Johan (from Traverse City and Sweden) on Vidimus. A bonus!

Staniel Cay at moonrise

Shooting the photo above

Making sea salt for bread production

Several days ago we sent an email to friends detailing our route to Florida along with a time line. Plans like that are good for about five minutes since the Bahamian government continues to update the guidelines (enforced where possible) for cruisers trying to get back to the U.S. Weather is also a factor that we cannot ignore as we sail the remaining 300+ miles north and across the Gulf Stream to Ft. Pierce. Sincere thanks to the posse of land-bound friends and family who often check in and keep us caught up with their busy lives. In the face of so much turbulence, we root for their wise action and good health every day.

Priorities change as circumstances demand. For example, we are out of chocolate but its absence is barely worth noting.