April 30, 2020 Matanzas Inlet, FL

Osprey on alert in the Banana River

April 30, 2020,  Fort Matanzas Inlet,  Florida            calliopecruise.blogspot.com

We spent five days in Pipe Creek, mid Exumas, Sheltering in Place as directed by the Bahamian government.   Currents were strong, but it was a beautiful anchorage.   We were able to do some isolated beach walking most days and swimming while attached to the dinghy.   Rowdy winds made the anchorage near Shroud Cay uncomfortable but we made the bumpy dinghy ride to the north creek for a sunrise cruise through the mangroves.   It was a fine way to begin a day!   Turning into the creek, we were surrounded by calm, clear waters winding over a sand bottom.  Large turtles and Sting Rays lead our 20 minute float to the Sound side (east) where mid tide made the swimming hole just right.  A leisurely breakfast on the rocks gave us time to reflect on four and a half months in the Bahamas.  It was time well spent.

Pipe Creek tidal flats

Pipe Creek fan coral

Passage between Joe Cay and Thomas Cay

Poison Wood found in abundance on Pipe Cay

The creek at Shroud Cay

The creek at Shroud Cay

Nesting sea bird in the rocks, one of many

The creek at Shroud Cay

The creek at Shroud Cay

Sea Turtle in the Shroud Cay creek

We sailed on to New Providence Island where the anchorage was ringed by condos.   A late day arrival and early morning departure kept that experience minimal.  Chubb Cay was the April17th spot, on to a 16-18 hour overnight sail to North Bimini where we spent 6 hours resting.   A 20 hour overnight to Ft Pierce, Florida left the Bahamas behind.   Dietrich enjoys sailing at night.   Annie does not.   It is sometimes unavoidable.   We were fortunate to have enough wind to sail but not enough to be uncomfortable and the Gulf Stream helped us move north with ease.  The night skies were spectacular with more sparkle than we ever see near land and with a peachy new moon appearing late on the horizon.   Just after sunrise, Dietrich caught a feisty barracuda whom he released, then something large bit his favorite cedar plug lure off the line, leaving only tattered 100 lb. monofilament.   Around mid morning, he caught a fifteen pound Amberjack!  Unfortunately, the only person close to a camera was me, so documentation is minimal.  That fish provided two generous meals.  It was flakey and tender when we sautéed it with  soy-lime sauce and later provided a good meaty texture in chowder.   We would welcome another on the line!

Barracuda x 3 feet

The Amber Jack for dinner

 We stayed at the Harbortown Marina in Ft Pierce, April 19^th-21^st, the first dock we had used in more than three months.   We were among few transients since that marina caters to Live Aboards.    They  practiced social distancing.  The facilities were kept clean and signs stated expectations for users with regard to Covid-19 cautions.  People were friendly, especially after they established that we were fresh from 12 days of isolation in the Bahamas and were using masks and gloves.   A 20 minute walk took us to the local grocery, Publix.   Masks and gloves were the standard attire (there were only a few women who went without), there were NO paper products and everything in the meat and deli departments was pre-wrapped with no behind-the-counter contacts.    We did not look upon any of those things as limitations; rather, it was like walking into Disneyland.   We slogged back to the boat, backpacks and bags loaded with enough to avoid stopping again for about two weeks.   That will be the trick to master as we head along the coast:  Try to avoid contacts but make every stop count for fuel, pump out, water and supplies in as few locations as possible.  

We have been on the move for about a week, anchoring at Melbourne, Satellite Beach on the Banana River, Titusville and Rock House Creek near New Smyrna Beach.   Dietrich has repaired a fuel leak and kept up with the need for maintenance that occurs when a boat is run solidly for 9-10 hour days.  We made the first contact stop at the Daytona Marina and Boatyard for fuel-pump out-water-snacks-and to chat with Daytona, the marina cat.   We stopped there in 2008-09 and on our way south in 2019, always with good vibes.  This time, the dock master wore a mask and wrapped the hoses with paper towels as he passed them to our boat.  However, the fellow who handled our lines was bare-faced and wore no gloves.   We have kept those lines in the sun for three days.   It’s daunting to realize that our safety is dependent not only on our vigilance but on the value others put on the safety of their communities.  

We did not see many birds in the Bahamas.  One reason is that very little fresh water is in sight.  Drinking water is mostly from the RO (Reverse Osmosis) sources.  There were a few osprey and we enjoyed the song of the Bahamian Mocking Birds every day.  Now, we are surrounded by birds that are numerous, elegant, colorful, huge and entertaining.  As we head north, osprey nests are appearing on channel markers, often at our eye level and only a few feet away.   We regularly see cranes, wood storks, herons, pelicans (always a daring circus act), egrets and Bald eagles.   Last evening, we watched at least a dozen Roseate Spoonbills prance around the marsh in their flashy pink and white outfits with a background of snow white egrets and a pair of wood storks.

Osprey pair

Brown Pelicans on many markers

 Fort Matanzas Inlet will be our home for several days.  The current is quite strong but the holding is good.  We are about a mile from the inlet and the open Atlantic, a pleasant dinghy ride over territory for turtles, porpoises and manatees.  The ocean beach (part of the Matanzas National Monument) is open only between 6:00 am and noon each day, only walking or fishing allowed, no chairs, towels or umbrellas, no congregating of more than two or three people, social distancing required.   You can be assured that we saw the sunrise on the beach this morning and we walked for nearly three hours.   It is one of those broad beaches where the gregarious rangers  drive their trucks, bicyclers can ride for miles, dogs can race after balls and into the surf and otherwise friendly people can stride out and walk freely.  

Matanzas River

Matanzas River

Fort Matanzas National Monument beach closure, looking south

Fort Matanzas National Monument beach closure, looking north

The tide ebbs

Roseate Spoonbills and Wood Storks in the back plus 2 Great Egrets

As to what happens to this adventure from here, we are unsure.   We will continue to head north along the coast until we get clear details about the opening of the Erie Canal.   The annual maintenance and repairs, which usually take over a month, have not begun.   We will do whatever it takes to be responsible, caring visitors to communities along the way and to remain healthy.    We root for your good health, as well!    Dietrich and Annie Floeter on Calliope, a 34’ Catalina sailing vessel

A tern minding the dinghy

Take a tern

April 10, 2020 Pipe Creek, Exumas, Bahamas

The rock iguana stalks

Our 86^th consecutive night at anchor and 258^th day since leaving Traverse City

So much has happened in the past few weeks, every day bringing new government regulations, alarming statistics and sad news.    When Dietrich and I met over three decades ago he introduced me to the music of John Prine.   It had carried him on a cross-country adventure in the ‘70s and has always been part of our music culture as a couple.    John Prine died two nights ago, the result of Covid-19.  

The Bahamian government has regularly updated its regulations for social distancing and changes to daily living.   Generally, cruisers have been included in the expectations, but specifics about our intra-island travel and access to fuel, water, and groceries have varied almost daily.   Many of us are heading for Florida but must consider safe routes that include some access to essential services and, a major concern, weather.   At this point, we want to emphasize how much we appreciate the Bahamian government’s excellent efforts.   Information has been well researched and shared in an articulate manner.   The attitude has been respectful and compassionate toward all of us.

Cruisers practicing proper Social Distancing on Little Darby Island

We left George Town on March 23^rd, sailing about 25 miles to Williams Bay off Lee Stocking Island.   The next seven days were spent in that area, swimming, snorkeling and hiking hilly trails.  A day trip to the locally named Jacuzzi Cay was a highlight.  It was rocky with sand beaches and came with several spectacular blowholes that were active even at low tide.    Swimming in the resulting pool was a hoot!  We are easily entertained.  At some point, we came across Barb and Miles on New Horizon.  We loosely tied our dinghies together and floated at least ½ a mile down the Bay as we caught up on travels since we last met New Year’s Eve.  It was social distancing at its finest.    We spent the last night anchored off the recently abandoned Perry Institute of Marine Science.  The buildings have been cleared but remain open.   We explored the campus for hours and left saddened by the loss of such a useful research facility.

The Jacuzzi, south of Boysie Cay

Coconut Beach on Lee Stocking Island

We continued north to the remote Little Darby Island where  water was the clearest we have seen, conchs were delicious and a Grunt or two grilled nicely.   The Darby Island Marine Research Station was located near our anchorage (Flower Pot Bay) and the Deja Vu crew (Erich and Marta) was doing some work on site.   We were the only two boats in that area for a week so keeping socially distanced was not hard.  We spent hours hiking (turns out that Erich is a first class beach comber), snorkeling, spear fishing, sharing stories and conjuring fantasies about future feasts we hope to prepare in Michigan.  Each evening at sunset, there was the traditional blowing of the conch shells.   Eric and Dietrich have made enough horns to outfit an octet and the sound is haunting (I mean that in the most complimentary way).    We also managed to dance on the beach to the music of Doc Watson, thanks to Erich’s MP3 player.

Erich cleaning conch for dinner

The Little Darby Research Station

The Castle on Big Darby Island

Deja Vu in the Flowerpot between the Darbies

Deja Vu Crew, Erich and Marta

About 1/2 mile distant was Goat Cay, a private retreat owned by Faith Hill and Tim McGraw.  We heard no country music wafting across the water so we assumed it was vacant during the current lock down.   In the other direction Rudder Cut Cay and Musha Cay housed a sprawl of beautiful homes owned by David Copperfield.   We enjoyed his quirky imagination when we visited the stainless steel replica of a grand piano (complete with mermaid) sunk in 15 feet of clear water just off shore.   While these islands are private and developed, their visual impact is low key, certainly appreciated in an otherwise remote area of the Exumas.   

David Copperfield's The Mermaid sculpture

The Mermaid

Tune a fish

Lousy Acoustics

As we sailed north, Dietrich let seawater evaporate for flake salt to top his bread.  We reluctantly broke a 12-day quarantine from close human contact and places other than remote islands to refuel and restock.   Grocery shopping at Staniel Cay was minimal and tricky while wearing rubber gloves and a mask.   There were no fresh greens, no potatoes, no meat and shelves were no more than half full with a slim collection of canned and boxed food.  The locals were kind but we knew that sharing meager resources with us was a concern.   One night in the Staniel Cay anchorage gave us a chance to have dinghy-to-boat visits with our Aussie friends, Stephen and Toni on Albacora, and with Paula and Johan (from Traverse City and Sweden) on Vidimus.   A bonus!

Staniel Cay at moonrise

Shooting the photo above

Making sea salt for  bread production

Several days ago we sent an email to friends detailing our route to Florida along with a time line.   Plans like that are good for about five minutes since the Bahamian government continues to update the guidelines (enforced where possible) for cruisers trying to get back to the U.S.   Weather is also a factor that we cannot ignore as we sail the remaining 300+ miles north and across the Gulf Stream to Ft. Pierce.  Sincere thanks to the posse of land-bound friends and family who often check in and keep us caught up with their busy lives.  In the face of so much turbulence, we root for their wise action and good health every day. 

Priorities change as circumstances demand.   For example, we are out of chocolate but its absence is barely worth noting.                          

                                              

On Little Darby Island

On Little Darby Island

A very low tide at Little Darby Island

Little Darby starfish

Little Darby surf

Little Darby surf

A healthy reef off Goat Cay

Eagle Ray flying off Goat Cay in a cloud of dust

An Eagle Ray lurking off Goat Cay

Little Darby surf

Arachnid at the Big Darby castle

Palm Frond at Lee Stocking Island