Wednesday, December 25, 2019

12.25.19 Christmas on S Bimini

At last, relaxed feet

December 25, 2019.    Those feet are Dietrich's.  He is sprawled among the flat rocks as the tide ebbs on a Bimini beach.   We departed No Name Harbor (Biscayne Bay, Florida) at 4:00 am December 6th, headed east to The Bahamas.  We turned back by 6:30 am due to winds that far exceeded predictions and a most uncomfortable ride.  We tried again at midnight in the company of Marc and Annie on Cramina II from Quebec.  It was a 9 hour ride to S. Bimini Island under a nearly full moon.  The sky over the Atlantic was filled with stars on a bright, navy background.  We dodged a few cruise ships (bright, floating villages), counted 6 more farther away and avoided a few freighters. It was a busy night.


A lonely brown pelican

Pre FL departure discussions with friends

Canadian boat Cramina II on our tail in the Gulf Stream with a setting moon

The sun also rises, over Bimini

We motored into the Bimini channel by late morning.  Checking in with customs went well!

The Bimini fire truck

A classic Bahamanian produce aisle

Life at the pool!
There is no water in that pool but the view is top notch!



















Unsettled weather has brought driving rains,
30 - 35 knot gusting winds and viciously biting No-See-Ums, hot, sparkling sunny days, hikes on gorgeous beaches, biking on sand roads, wild dinghy rides, riding kayaks over crashing waves, lobster dinners and great company. Also, after more than 30 married years, Dietrich has taken up baking.  He has made three batches of brownies!   S. Bimini is quiet, has a small, one-woman restaurant (everything fried), a tiny convenience store, an airport, and a marina under new management and repair.  The bar, Brews and Screws, used to share space with a hardware store.  The hardware disappeared but the name remains...


Always time your dinghy trips across the flats with a fuller tide
We dinghy or ferry to N. Bimini Island for a slightly better selection of groceries ($4.00 for 16 oz. boxed milk  $$$$$) while competing on foot with chaotic traffic on narrow roads not designed for vehicles larger than golf carts.  Technically, Bahamians drive on the left.  We have learned to avoid assumptions, and are gradually learning to look both ways before stepping into the road.


Bikes and beaches

The Bimini Biological Research Station specializes in the study of sharks and has been here since the 1960s.  There are nine varieties of sharks documented around these islands.   Our tour was excellent! Bull sharks hover outside the channel but will magically materialize in the marina if anyone uses one of the fish cleaning stations.  Dietrich's snorkel and fin swims to check the zincs (sacrificial metal to keep the prop from corroding) have been speedy!   The nurse sharks are relatively gentle and rarely cause concern for swimmers.  We see them every day along the clear, rocky shore near our boat.


A baby lemon shark at the Shark Lab

Look ma, no teeth
Nurse shark cruising the marine

Bimini Road off North Bimini

Friend Jesse cruising for lobster
We had a holiday gathering last night at the marina bar.  Although staff had gone home, the manager kindly opened the building and provided a security guard (possibly to keep us out of the stash!) who added to the fun.   Dietrich found that happy cruisers make great photo subjects.  The people you see below have been our company for about three weeks.  They are from Brazil, Australia, Tasmania, France, Germany, Netherlands, Switzerland, British Columbia, Quebec, California, Oregon, Minnesota, Suttons Bay and Traverse City, Michigan.  Dietrich speaks German, but neither of us speaks French, most people spoke some English.  The food was wonderful!


Xmas 2019 at Bimin Sands                                                                                      


The Dolphin House is located on N. Bimini and has been Ashley Saunders' work for decades.  He gives an informed, highly rehearsed, wonderfully quirky tour of the building that is encrusted with recycled items from the islands' resorts and natural landscape.  It was worth the time and $16.00.  Kimberly Bindschatel, a Traverse City author, referenced Mr. Saunders in one of her novels.


Ashley Saunders, Dolphin House




Dolphin House with Hemingway's rods


Dolphin House


Dolphin House

Dolphin House

view from Dolphin House

Since mid August, we have been in touch with Suttons Bay, Michigan friends, Sue and Pete Stott.  They have been heading south along our general path, but they departed nearly a month later.   They are on Salsa, a 44' Huckins Yacht, so they  caught up last week!  They are docked about a mile away so we have enjoyed their company during several beach walks, meals and last night's cruiser party.  We will join them tonight for Christmas dinner.  We bought Rock lobster from Brown, a Bahamian neighbor who has the magic touch for finding them.  Pete is a whiz at grilling them to tender perfection.    As weather calms, we will wander toward other islands and south.  We expect to see many of these S. Bimini cruising pals in the next few months.    Merry holidays to everyone!  We hope 2020 begins with new insights and good health,  Annie and Dietrich on Calliope






No comments: