Calliope Cruise

Tuesday, February 11, 2020

February 11, 2020 Cambridge Cay, Exumas, Bahamas

Warderick Wells Gecco

February 11, 2020

We are not certain as to when this will be posted. Cell signals in these remote areas of the Park are not good. Here’s hoping it reaches you before all the Valentine chocolate has been consumed!

Rock Sound, on Eleuthera, was worth a repeat visit. Sue Stott gave it high praise, so we were expecting the best. It was large enough to provide anchoring options for wind from any direction, we were never more than a 1 1/2 mi. dinghy ride from town, water was pale blue over white sand, swimming and kayaking were excellent. The grocery was well stocked and the laundromat was the best one so far…it came with an attendant who happily shared local lore and suggestions for good restaurants. It was clean, well maintained and was advertised with a sign that read,
“Laundry Mat.”

Rock Sound First Responders?

Rock Sound street scene

Rock Sound School

Rock Sound's Ocean Hole

Rock Sound's historic buildings

Rock Sound shopping

We met Carol and Liz (on a Leopard Cat headed for a few years in the Caribbean) and Tommy and Emily (met them first on Jekyll Is., Ga.) on the dinghy dock. We all had groceries and laundry to get back to boats but we couldn’t seem to get away. An hour of chatter left us needing more so we met for dinner at Frigate’s restaurant. We were six cruisers pouring our hearts out with life stories, tales of adventure and hopes for our futures. It was a long evening, we changed tables twice to get out of the rain and our dinghies filled with water. We promised to stay in touch and we meant it. Hard-hearted cruisers we were not.

We moved on to the unsurveyed area of Schooner Cay (pronounced as KEY in the Bahamas), off the SW end of Eleuthera. Dietrich worked from info on Dockage.com that included photos, maps and charts. We entered slowly, at high tide, through deep channels between sandbars. As the tide dropped, mounded sandbars appeared around us, a protective ring. We stayed several days, isolated but focused on the changing scenery. The mystery was a thatched-roofed picnic table on a tiny island nearby, sited on a sandy spot in lush landscape. The low end of that island was thick with baby conchs, a nursery!

Schooner Cays anchorage

Exuma sound storm coming on

Exuma Sound storm coming on

Schooner Cays conch nursery

We spent a rough night at Norman’s Cay Cut, near wreckage of a DC3 from around 1980. A tricky passage at high tide took us into Norman’s Pond (we nudged bottom once, yikes!) where we willingly stayed for five days. It was about a mile long, surrounded by rocky hills, sandbars at low tide (sand dollars everywhere) and provided excellent protection. We had plenty of good company but privacy, as well. A short dinghy ride plus a 3 mi. round trip hike took us to MacDuff’s restaurant on the western shore looking out on the Exuma Banks. Entrees were delicious and the wait staff was charming. We shared the deep, covered porch overlooking the shore with our Pond neighbors, Bill and Molly on Salty Paws, fine company. That evening six of us gathered on Jubillie II (named for Julie and another Bill) for snacks and tales. At one point our host slid to the floor and passed out! Molly, a nurse, did all the right things in a hurry and a bewildered Bill sat up, ready to continue the evening. We all checked on each other the next morning, keenly aware of our fragility.

MacDuff's on Norman's Cay

We entered the Exuma Land and Sea Park at Shroud Cay. (Anchoring a 34’ boat in the park is $20.00 nightly, some locations have moorings at $25.00 nightly. Moorings are handy since currents, tides, and winds can be challenging on an anchor) We made two dinghy trips along the wide creek cutting through the north end of the Cay, west to east, Exuma Banks to the Sound. It was populated with big, old turtles and Sting Rays, landscaped with flowering bushes and pink-stemmed mangroves. Broad curves brought sandbars, deep pools, strong currents and, after more than a mile, the crashing waves of the Sound. It was glowing near sunset, bright and fresh near sunrise. Dietrich stood up to get the best views as he drove, I hung over the bow to chat with passing turtles. Swimming in the deep, swirling pools at the end was a thrill.

the Pilot

Shroud Cay's dinghy creek

Shroud Cay's Sound side

Sea turtle

Shroud Cay

Shroud Cay's dinghy creek

Heading south, we stayed three nights at Park headquarters, Warderick Wells. The moorings were settled in a spacious horseshoe surrounded by sandbars and hilly islands. We enjoyed hiking, kayaking and conversations with Sherri, the Park office manager. Alessandro, Laura, Pepe and Orietta were great neighbors who made our stay so interesting and enlightening. Sicilian wine and grilled veggies will always bring good memories!

Warderick Wells North Mooring Field

Cambridge Cay (still in the Park) has been a fine homecoming! We spent many days here in 2009, surrounded with cruising friends and watery adventures. The area is dotted with islands, rocky mounds, miles of challenging hiking trails and a natural sea aquarium, beautiful from all angles. Currents are strong so snorkeling at the aquarium site has meant clipping to a dinghy mooring then tying swimmers to lines on the dinghy. Last week, Dietrich’s underwater camera filled with salt water (oh, the frustration!) so the aquarium will be a memory to cherish in conversation and the photos we shot from the dinghy. We also clipped to a rowdy, big chop site in

20 ft. of water that looked like Blue Moon jello. The main attractions were the remains of a single engine cargo plane lying on its back, probably a relic from the drug running era decades ago.

Bell Rock is conquered

Bell Rock

Cambridge mooring field

Cambridge water

Groceries at Staniel Cay: $55 per bag

The Websters of Salty Paws

We are delighted to have gregarious mooring hosts who take care of collecting fees and provide wise advice about routes to consider as we head south. They live aboard a Kadey-Krogen trawler with home base in Newport, R.I. and buzz around in the dinghy of our dreams. The other bonus about being here is that Bill and Molly on Salty Paws are nearby again. We have hiked, kayaked and shared marvelous conversations with them. They will head home to the Maine coast eventually, but we hope a long distant contact will remain. In the meantime, we are all rooting for Dietrich to continue his quest to be the Hot Shot bread baker of all time. He’s working on a whole wheat-oat loaf with herbs and sea salt that is fabulous!

another loaf

Thursday, January 23, 2020

January 23, 2020 Rock Sound, Eleuthera

Coral reef outside Hatchet Bay

January 22, 2020

Blog: Rock Sound, Eleuthera, blowing like stink

We had questions from friends that made us aware of cruising details we could clarify. If you do not spend much time on boats, some of what we do may be unexpected. First, our 34’ sailboat does not have a washer or dryer. Laundry is done when we can find a laundramat (not often and at up to $8.00 a load) or by hand in soapy seawater, followed by a fresh water rinse. Drying can take hours due to high humidity and wind can make clothespins useless. Our galley has a deep, double sink, a two burner propane stove (tank in the cockpit), a tiny oven (for Dietrich’s brownies and bread) and a deep, top-accessed refrigerator with a 1 ft. sq. freezer. It requires a head first dive with a flashlight to explore contents. So far, this may sound a lot like how some of you live in your RVs, except that we float in remote places with unreliable access to any retail stores or services. We store dry and canned goods in Rubbermaid tubs to keep bugs and humidity at bay. Finding a place to refill the propane tank is not easy so quick cooking with a wok conserves fuel. Our cockpit has a full canvas enclosure so we cannot use a grill. Boat maintenance is a task to be addressed daily, for safety as well as pride. Dietrich is familiar with all the systems (diesel and gas engines, electrical, plumbing, rigging…), working with basic tools and extra parts on hand. The head (toilet/water closet) gets pumped out at fuel docks or when we are at least 3 miles off shore. At that point, we are allowed to use the macerator. Our 9 1/2 ft. inflatable dinghy and kayak are stored on the bow deck, using the spinnaker halyard to launch. The 9.9 Mercury engine has a home on the stern railing with a dedicated crane.

A dinghy on the loose

Before we left Spanish Wells, we spent a day with Sue and Pete Stott exploring several places south on Eleuthera (Spanish Wells is a separate island with Russell Island, at the northern tip of the chain). Two lively ferry rides, two fast taxi rides and a rattling golf cart rental took us through rough waters, over rural countryside and on to Rock Harbor Island. We toured neighborhoods, found a few shops with clothing priced for elegant occasions and were directed to a great place for lunch, Queen Conch. We all had seafood that received high marks…my wahoo wrap was excellent! It was a good change of pace and the company was top notch. Since we all seemed to have an excess of energy, we enjoyed one more evening stop for Papa’s Scoops ice cream. Vanilla and Goom Bay Punch were the night’s flavors, as delicious as our first stop. We shared the tiny seating area with a sleeping chicken.

Papa's Scoops in Spanish Wells

On January 15^th, after filling our fresh water tanks (56 cents a gal.) we left Spanish Wells. We were eager to explore other harbors but leaving that safe, appealing place was not easy. We chose to stay along the western side of Eleuthera. The shores reared up in tangled patterns of limestone and low caves, then made room for sheltered, white sand beaches and beautiful anchorages.

Our Haitian water man

Our Michigan water flunky

We hiked across the island to the open Atlantic where waves crashed into stone pools (The Queen’s Bath) then drained in veils over the sides. The water was chilly but irresistible. A ragged cut-through called The Glass Window was spectacular! We stood on the bridge to overlook the exploding power of waves beneath and feel the rumbling. Before retrieving the dinghy we stopped at the Glass Window Café high above our anchorage. We sat on the deep covered porch for spicy conch fritters and, as the only customers, enjoyed the company of our waiter. We asked him about the SUV we saw crumpled at the bottom of the nearby cliffs, partly covered at high tide. He explained about the Rage: Strong, wind-driven waves blowing toward shore at a full moon, high tide can cause waves leaping up to 60 – 70 ft., over the rocks and road bed near the Glass Window Bridge. Every now and then, in an effort to get home after a long day, someone takes a chance and drives that stretch during the Rage. The SUV we saw had been swept over the edge by a raging wave.

The Queen's Bath

The Glass Window Bridge cafe

The Glass Window Bridge waiter

A short sail south took us to a harbor with some protection but questionable areas of grass where anchoring could be tricky. The first 24 hours in Hatchet Bay were lively. As wind increased and dark descended, a boat near us began to drag its anchor, sliding toward another boat. Dietrich sped forward in the dinghy and I tried to alert anyone on the radio. Eventually, the owners appeared on deck and realized the peril…lots of drama but no damage. However, the winds continued to rise and the sea became a snarling beast, disinclined to let us rest. It was an all night vigil as we hung on to our seats and blessed the anchors that held.

Big winds kept us in that bay (with 15 other boats) for four days. We kayaked, explored in the dinghy and bicycled. Alice Town (on the bay) showed signs of old, unrepaired storm damages, a sagging economy and minimal community organization. The churches and school were obviously places of pride, the grounds and gardens clean and colorful. In an effort to find fresh produce, Dietrich biked to nearby Gregory Town. Along the way he wheeled into the welcoming entrance to an organic farm. Two barking dogs came hurling at him. He fended one off but the other one bit his leg just as a farm hand ran up to end the attack. Apologies were offered for the dogs’ behavior and confirmation was made that no produce was available yet. A visit to the local clinic and an updated tetanus shot put that puncture wound on the road to healing. The next day Dietrich found a cave and beautiful snorkeling just outside the bay entrance, but no lobsters (always hopeful). He also began to bake bread! Three sessions produced four loaves of crusty, white bread laced with flaked salt and herbs. I am looking forward to more! It will keep me fueled while I learn only a speck of what I do not know about painting with watercolors. My new set is a welcome challenge.

Bread

Dinghy Cave shots

Gregory Town dominoes

Gregory Town wharf

Gregory Town sign to everywhere

Entrance to Hatchet Bay Cave

Hatchet Bay Cave

Beware the organic farm biting dogs

Alice Town church

So, we love cheese. The cheese monger in Charlestown, S.C., Goat. Sheep. Cow., is our favorite and her mugs keep the memories close. Dietrich was inspired:

Our favorite cheese monger

GOAT SHEEP COW

GO SHEEP COW

GO CHEAP COW

ONWARD DISCOUNT BOVINE

Today, January 21, we sailed nearly 40 miles to Rock Harbor, toward the south end of Eleuthera. We could see the shadow of Calliope on the white sand twenty feet below the turquoise waters. Some days, we settle into the rhythm of the sea, the sails are filled, the sounds are gentle. We smile a lot.

40 miles of 20 foot deep water

Clouds

Saturday, January 11, 2020

January 10, 2020 Spanish Wells, Bahamas

January 10, 2020

Bimini the day before our departure

North Bimini lobsters pre-departure

Departing friends on Blue Horizon

January 10, 2020 Happy Majority Rule Day in Spanish Wells off Eleuthera in the Bahamas

Ringing in the New Year on Albacora

We left the Bimini Islands at 10:00 pm, December 30^th, gratefully leaving another hatch of nasty No-See-Ums in our wake. We sailed for fifteen hours through the night under a mix of clear skies, big chop, rain and plenty of wind to satisfy Dietrich’s wish for lively sailing. We settled at an anchorage near Bird Cay in the Barry Islands. Australian cruisers on Albacora invited Calliope and the British Columbian cruisers on Blue Horizon for a New Year celebration. It was a fine way to end 2019!

Salsa at The Barrys

Minnows at Hoffman's cay

Hoffman's Cay, Berry Islands

A few days at a very bumpy, uncomfortable anchorage near Hoffman Cay left us exhausted. However, the surrounding white sand beaches and snorkeling made the stay worthwhile.

On sunny January 4^thwe had a rowdy ten hour sail to Spanish Wells off the island of Eleuthera. We are at a private dock on a river (brackish water and electricity available for minimal cost above the nightly 50 cents a foot, a deal… Snapper Point Dock) fairly protected from the big winds keeping us here. Pete and Sue Stott, on Salsa from Suttons Bay, are docked 10 minutes from us, so we share information about weather and local finds.

Trail to Spanish Wells beach

Spanish Wells beach

A fine Bailey Bridge to neighboring Russell Island

The island’s outlying topography is hilly, rocky, forested, dotted with small farms and meadows. In town and along the beautiful shores, houses are mostly stuccoed masonry, painted and trimmed in white and a variety of pastels. There are still hints of British Colonial architecture. Hurricane Dorian battered this area for three days with winds up to 100 mph, wreaking havoc with the orchards (bananas, coconuts, papayas, sour oranges, lemons, limes…) and dwellings. In addition, nearly every available rental property has been filled with refugees from worse damage in the Abacos. Those people are beginning to return home, but with no power and minimal shelter.

Spanish Wells beach

Budda's with the Stotts

This community is friendly and low key. There are no big hotels, multi-leveled condos or elegant shops. However, lively restaurants with good food and a locally made ice cream parlor meet our needs for evening entertainment. The roads are roughly paved and quite narrow. Bicycles and walkers compete with speedy golf carts and small pick up trucks or cars, all driving on the left. There are usually no sidewalks. The mail boat and freight boats arrive once a week, as weather and emergencies allow. Yesterday, there was a run on the local grocery store after the boats arrived carrying the fresh produce we crave. When we are not reading, writing and doing boat work, there are miles of white sand beaches and swimming a 20 minute walk away through charming neighborhoods and lush, flowered landscapes.

Spanish Wells

Across the road from our dock is the Bikini Bottoms Café. It is run by a local teacher and her family. She arrives in the dark each morning to prep for breakfast, post the chalkboard menu, then head to the classroom. We have enjoyed her freshly baked Johnnycakes for early breakfasts in the cockpit, but the best times have been at a café table for the full breakfast and the adoring company of the neighbor’s cat.

The Bikini Bottom restaurant cat

Dietrich has spent much time learning about the intricacies of Calliope’s battery bank. Two year old batteries should have been hardy for about four years but ours have shown signs of early failure. A local boatyard had a deep cycle battery to replace two of the worst originals. He had to rent a golf cart to haul it to Calliope so, we took that opportunity for wild rides to remote landscapes.

The marine railway right through town

Sampling regional foods and conversations with locals are always high on our list of fun things to do. In Spanish Wells, a Scourch can be fresh tomatoes, onions, seafood (coarsely chopped conch is common) and chili pepper flakes in sour orange juice, salted as preferred. It is served as a salad similar to ceviche. The sour orange has a short growing season and Ilene (the chef who sets up on an empty lot each day, 10:00 am– 2:00 pm, serving delicacies from under her canopy) said it was in full swing when the hurricane arrived. She lost many of those trees! Since we do not have access to sour oranges at home, her husband (who makes the Scourch) suggested that we use a small orange and a large lime as an alternative. The term “salad” can be misleading to those of us used to a green presence on our plates. Proportionately, this salad is a generous ½ seafood, mixed with mostly tomatoes and enough onions and seasonings to satisfy personal preference. The citrus juices should cover the mixture (marinating only 25-30 min. since seafood will get tough or rubbery if left much longer…but, it’s one of those variables) and be served soupy. Dense bread like Naan or flatbread make a good accompaniment for sopping that juice. Dietrich added hot conch fritters served in a paper bag. He said they were mostly conch with only a light, flavorful batter, exquisite.

Once every week, the mailboat/freight ships come in loaded with fresh produce and food stuffs along with everything else a community needs for everyday life. This lifeline is crucial and results in crowds at the grocery the following day. The Majority Rules Day holiday interrupted the routine with the large grocery store closed immediately after the delivery.

The freight/mail boat

Refrigerated produce on the dock all day

Stotts introduced us to Papa's Scoops, a drive up ice cream stand run from a tent next to the neighborhood street and Papa’s home. It’s open from 7:00 – 9:00 pm and only two flavors are available each evening. After a 20 min. trek we were happy to find one table available to walkers! The ice cream, chocolate and red velvet, was icy and intensely flavored, worth a repeat visit. The bonus was a conversation with the woman on duty, a young mother who grew up on the island and has never seen snow.

On January 6, a SpaceX Falcon was launched from Kennedy Space Center and an attempt was made to view this launch from the Spanish Wells beach which is only 274 nautical miles away. The resulting photo does show a faint launch before the clouds and moving cruise ships on the horizon.