January 23, 2020 Rock Sound, Eleuthera

Coral reef outside Hatchet Bay

       January 22, 2020

Blog: Rock Sound, Eleuthera, blowing like stink

We had questions from friends that made us aware of cruising details we could clarify.  If you do not spend much time on boats, some of what we do may be unexpected.  First, our 34’ sailboat does not have a washer or dryer.  Laundry is done when we can find a laundramat (not often and at up to $8.00 a load) or by hand in soapy seawater, followed by a fresh water rinse. Drying can take hours due to high humidity and wind can make clothespins useless.  Our galley has a deep, double sink, a two burner propane stove (tank in the cockpit), a tiny oven (for Dietrich’s brownies and bread) and a deep, top-accessed refrigerator with a 1 ft. sq. freezer.  It requires a head first dive with a flashlight to explore contents.   So far, this may sound a lot like how some  of you live in your RVs, except that we float in remote places with unreliable access to any retail stores or services.  We store dry and canned goods in Rubbermaid tubs to keep bugs and humidity at bay. Finding a place to refill the propane tank is not easy so quick cooking with a wok conserves fuel.  Our cockpit has a full canvas enclosure so we cannot use a grill.  Boat maintenance is a task to be addressed daily, for safety as well as pride. Dietrich is familiar with all the systems (diesel and gas engines, electrical, plumbing, rigging…), working with basic tools and extra parts on hand.   The head (toilet/water closet) gets pumped out at fuel docks or when we are at least 3 miles off shore.  At that point, we are allowed to use the macerator.  Our 9 1/2 ft. inflatable dinghy and kayak are stored on the bow deck,  using the spinnaker halyard to launch.   The 9.9 Mercury engine has a home on the stern railing with a dedicated crane.

A dinghy on the loose

   Before we left Spanish Wells, we spent a day with Sue and Pete Stott exploring several places south on Eleuthera (Spanish Wells is a separate island with Russell Island, at the northern tip of the chain).  Two lively ferry rides, two fast taxi rides  and a rattling golf cart rental took us through rough waters, over rural countryside and on to Rock Harbor Island.   We toured neighborhoods, found a few shops with clothing priced for elegant occasions and were directed to a great place for lunch, Queen Conch.   We all had seafood that received high marks…my wahoo wrap was excellent!  It was a good change of pace and the company was top notch.  Since we all seemed to have an excess of energy, we enjoyed one more evening stop for Papa’s Scoops ice cream.  Vanilla and Goom Bay Punch were the night’s flavors, as delicious as our first stop.  We shared the tiny seating area with a sleeping chicken.

Papa's Scoops in Spanish Wells

On January 15^th, after filling our fresh water tanks (56 cents a gal.) we left Spanish Wells. We were eager to explore other harbors but leaving that safe, appealing place was not easy.   We chose to stay along the western side of  Eleuthera.  The shores reared up in tangled patterns of limestone and low caves, then made room for sheltered, white sand beaches and beautiful anchorages.  

Our Haitian water man

Our Michigan water flunky

We hiked across the island to the open Atlantic where waves crashed into stone pools (The Queen’s Bath) then drained in veils over the sides.  The water was chilly but irresistible.   A ragged cut-through called The Glass Window was spectacular! We stood on the bridge to overlook the exploding power of waves beneath and feel the rumbling.  Before retrieving the dinghy we stopped at the Glass Window Café high above our anchorage.  We sat on the deep covered porch for spicy conch fritters and, as the only customers, enjoyed the company of our waiter.  We asked him about the SUV we saw crumpled at the bottom of the nearby cliffs, partly covered at high tide.   He explained about the Rage:  Strong, wind-driven waves blowing toward shore at a full moon, high tide can cause waves leaping up to 60 – 70 ft., over the rocks and road bed near the Glass Window Bridge.  Every now and then, in an effort to get home after a long day, someone takes a chance and drives that stretch during the Rage.   The SUV we saw had been swept over the edge by a raging wave.

The Queen's Bath

The Glass Window Bridge cafe

The Glass Window Bridge cafe

The Glass Window Bridge waiter

A short sail south took us to a harbor with some protection but questionable areas of grass where anchoring could be tricky.   The first 24 hours in Hatchet Bay were lively.  As wind increased and dark descended, a boat near us began to drag its anchor, sliding toward another boat.  Dietrich sped forward in the dinghy and I tried to alert anyone on the radio.  Eventually, the owners appeared on deck and realized the peril…lots of drama but no damage.   However, the winds continued to rise and the sea became a snarling beast, disinclined to let us rest.  It was an all night vigil as we hung on to our seats and blessed the anchors that held. 

Big winds kept us in that bay (with 15 other boats) for four days.   We kayaked, explored in the dinghy and bicycled.   Alice Town (on the bay) showed signs of old, unrepaired storm damages, a sagging economy and minimal community organization.   The churches and school were obviously places of pride, the grounds and gardens clean and colorful.   In an effort to find fresh produce, Dietrich biked to nearby Gregory Town. Along the way he wheeled into the welcoming entrance to an organic farm.  Two barking dogs came hurling at him.  He fended one off  but the other one bit his leg just as a farm hand ran up to end the attack.  Apologies were offered for the dogs’ behavior and confirmation was made that no produce was available yet.  A visit to the local clinic and an updated tetanus shot put that puncture wound on the road to healing.   The next day Dietrich found a cave and beautiful snorkeling just outside the bay entrance, but no lobsters (always hopeful).   He also began to bake bread!  Three sessions produced four loaves of crusty, white bread laced with flaked salt and herbs.  I am looking forward to more!   It will keep me fueled while I learn only a speck of what I do not know about painting with watercolors.  My new set is a welcome challenge.

Bread

Dinghy Cave shots

Gregory Town dominoes

Gregory Town wharf

Gregory Town sign to everywhere

Entrance to Hatchet Bay Cave

Hatchet Bay Cave

Beware the organic farm biting dogs

Alice Town church

So, we love cheese. The cheese monger in Charlestown, S.C.,  Goat. Sheep. Cow.,  is our favorite and her mugs keep the memories close.  Dietrich was inspired:

Our favorite cheese monger

           

GOAT  SHEEP  COW

GO  SHEEP  COW

GO  CHEAP COW

ONWARD DISCOUNT BOVINE    

Today, January 21, we sailed nearly 40 miles to Rock Harbor, toward the south end of Eleuthera.  We could see the shadow of Calliope on the white sand twenty feet below the turquoise waters.  Some days, we settle into the rhythm of the sea, the sails are filled,  the sounds are gentle.  We smile a lot.

40 miles of 20 foot deep water

Clouds