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| Osprey on alert in the Banana River |
April 30, 2020, Fort Matanzas Inlet, Florida calliopecruise.blogspot.com
We spent five days in Pipe Creek, mid Exumas, Sheltering in Place as directed by the Bahamian government. Currents were strong, but it was a beautiful anchorage. We were able to do some isolated beach walking most days and swimming while attached to the dinghy. Rowdy winds made the anchorage near Shroud Cay uncomfortable but we made the bumpy dinghy ride to the north creek for a sunrise cruise through the mangroves. It was a fine way to begin a day! Turning into the creek, we were surrounded by calm, clear waters winding over a sand bottom. Large turtles and Sting Rays lead our 20 minute float to the Sound side (east) where mid tide made the swimming hole just right. A leisurely breakfast on the rocks gave us time to reflect on four and a half months in the Bahamas. It was time well spent.
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| Pipe Creek tidal flats |
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| Pipe Creek fan coral |
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| Passage between Joe Cay and Thomas Cay |
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| Poison Wood found in abundance on Pipe Cay |
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| The creek at Shroud Cay |
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| The creek at Shroud Cay |
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| Nesting sea bird in the rocks, one of many |
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| The creek at Shroud Cay |
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| The creek at Shroud Cay |
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| Sea Turtle in the Shroud Cay creek |
We sailed on to New Providence Island where the anchorage was ringed by condos. A late day arrival and early morning departure kept that experience minimal. Chubb Cay was the April17th spot, on to a 16-18 hour overnight sail to North Bimini where we spent 6 hours resting. A 20 hour overnight to Ft Pierce, Florida left the Bahamas behind. Dietrich enjoys sailing at night. Annie does not. It is sometimes unavoidable. We were fortunate to have enough wind to sail but not enough to be uncomfortable and the Gulf Stream helped us move north with ease. The night skies were spectacular with more sparkle than we ever see near land and with a peachy new moon appearing late on the horizon. Just after sunrise, Dietrich caught a feisty barracuda whom he released, then something large bit his favorite cedar plug lure off the line, leaving only tattered 100 lb. monofilament. Around mid morning, he caught a fifteen pound Amberjack! Unfortunately, the only person close to a camera was me, so documentation is minimal. That fish provided two generous meals. It was flakey and tender when we sautéed it with soy-lime sauce and later provided a good meaty texture in chowder. We would welcome another on the line!
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Barracuda x 3 feet
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| The Amber Jack for dinner |
We stayed at the Harbortown Marina in Ft Pierce, April 19th-21st, the first dock we had used in more than three months. We were among few transients since that marina caters to Live Aboards. They practiced social distancing. The facilities were kept clean and signs stated expectations for users with regard to Covid-19 cautions. People were friendly, especially after they established that we were fresh from 12 days of isolation in the Bahamas and were using masks and gloves. A 20 minute walk took us to the local grocery, Publix. Masks and gloves were the standard attire (there were only a few women who went without), there were NO paper products and everything in the meat and deli departments was pre-wrapped with no behind-the-counter contacts. We did not look upon any of those things as limitations; rather, it was like walking into Disneyland. We slogged back to the boat, backpacks and bags loaded with enough to avoid stopping again for about two weeks. That will be the trick to master as we head along the coast: Try to avoid contacts but make every stop count for fuel, pump out, water and supplies in as few locations as possible.
We have been on the move for about a week, anchoring at Melbourne, Satellite Beach on the Banana River, Titusville and Rock House Creek near New Smyrna Beach. Dietrich has repaired a fuel leak and kept up with the need for maintenance that occurs when a boat is run solidly for 9-10 hour days. We made the first contact stop at the Daytona Marina and Boatyard for fuel-pump out-water-snacks-and to chat with Daytona, the marina cat. We stopped there in 2008-09 and on our way south in 2019, always with good vibes. This time, the dock master wore a mask and wrapped the hoses with paper towels as he passed them to our boat. However, the fellow who handled our lines was bare-faced and wore no gloves. We have kept those lines in the sun for three days. It’s daunting to realize that our safety is dependent not only on our vigilance but on the value others put on the safety of their communities.
We did not see many birds in the Bahamas. One reason is that very little fresh water is in sight. Drinking water is mostly from the RO (Reverse Osmosis) sources. There were a few osprey and we enjoyed the song of the Bahamian Mocking Birds every day. Now, we are surrounded by birds that are numerous, elegant, colorful, huge and entertaining. As we head north, osprey nests are appearing on channel markers, often at our eye level and only a few feet away. We regularly see cranes, wood storks, herons, pelicans (always a daring circus act), egrets and Bald eagles. Last evening, we watched at least a dozen Roseate Spoonbills prance around the marsh in their flashy pink and white outfits with a background of snow white egrets and a pair of wood storks.
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| Osprey pair |
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| Brown Pelicans on many markers |
Fort Matanzas Inlet will be our home for several days. The current is quite strong but the holding is good. We are about a mile from the inlet and the open Atlantic, a pleasant dinghy ride over territory for turtles, porpoises and manatees. The ocean beach (part of the Matanzas National Monument) is open only between 6:00 am and noon each day, only walking or fishing allowed, no chairs, towels or umbrellas, no congregating of more than two or three people, social distancing required. You can be assured that we saw the sunrise on the beach this morning and we walked for nearly three hours. It is one of those broad beaches where the gregarious rangers drive their trucks, bicyclers can ride for miles, dogs can race after balls and into the surf and otherwise friendly people can stride out and walk freely.
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| Matanzas River |
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| Matanzas River |
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| Fort Matanzas National Monument beach closure, looking south |
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| Fort Matanzas National Monument beach closure, looking north |
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| The tide ebbs |
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| Roseate Spoonbills and Wood Storks in the back plus 2 Great Egrets |
As to what happens to this adventure from here, we are unsure. We will continue to head north along the coast until we get clear details about the opening of the Erie Canal. The annual maintenance and repairs, which usually take over a month, have not begun. We will do whatever it takes to be responsible, caring visitors to communities along the way and to remain healthy. We root for your good health, as well! Dietrich and Annie Floeter on Calliope, a 34’ Catalina sailing vessel
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| A tern minding the dinghy |
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| Take a tern |
1 comment:
I loved Shroud Cay - one of my favorite stops. Thanks so much for recommending it!
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