September 4, 2019 Sag Harbor to Annapolis

We did enjoy walking the historic neighborhoods of Sag Harbor. Prices were out of sight, but the chocolate sorbet we shared was exquisite.  Our anchorage, two miles across the bay, was away from big boat traffic and came with free aerial shows by resident ospreys.

Coffee Pot Light Long Island

Sag Harbor

We took a mooring at the City Island Yacht Club (far west end of Long Island Sound).  It came with a 24 hr. launch service, a launch dog, and drivers who were ready to share local lore and suggestions for having fun.  A long walk into town was worth the effort when we found Artie's Italian restaurant.  Imagine perfectly cooked pasta, paper thin sun dried tomatoes, steamed broccoli, juicy-fresh grilled shrimp and toasted pistachios dressed with peppery olive oil, lime juice, and fresh basil.  We smiled all the way back to the boat.  The morning departure was at the ebbing tide, down that lively East River, topping out around Hell Gate at 12.0 knots over ground. Dietrich never stopped grinning! (and from the Captain: The term Hell Gate was originally from the Dutch Helle Gadt, meaning Bright Strait or Clear Opening, although after 50 or more vessels sunk in the area it must have seemed like some version of Hell. In the 19th Century, the strait was cleared with explosives and the passage now can be quite benign but still very fast.)

Lighthouse with New Rochelle

City Island Yacht Club Mooring Field

City Island Yacht Club 

12.0 knots Speed Over Ground

NY Harbor

Traffic Entering NY Harbor

Continuing south we bounded 240 miles in the Atlantic swells off New Jersey.  We anchored at Atlantic Highlands, Atlantic City, and Cape May before heading 65 miles up Delaware Bay and into Chesapeake City.   The tide was with us most of the way!  Labor Day weekend boat traffic was challenging, but we enjoyed good conversations at the dock.   Breakfast at local Fire Station 2 was a feast of homemade goodies and nice people.

Sandy Hook Point at Dawn

Skimmers Feeding in Brigantine at Atlantic City

Atlantic City, NJ

Atlantic City NJ Inlet at Dawn

 

At Anchor in Brigantine at Atlantic City

Cape May Beach

Chesapeake City

A lovely night anchored in the Sassafras River (northeast Chesapeake) ended with a morning so foggy that we had to drop anchor for 2 hours after getting an early start.  Eventually, clear skies allowed us to head into a rowdy Bay, wind on our nose and a knot of tidal current in our favor.  Those opposing forces combined with heavy power boat traffic and many crab pots required careful navigating.  Moving around on board under those conditions can be tricky, so we live in the cockpit all day.  Fifty miles to the Annapolis area sent us into Mill Creek where we landed at Cantler's dock.  Thanks to our friend, Kelly Roscher,  we discovered Cantler's Crab restaurant many years ago.  The meals are served on sheets of craft paper so the debris of shells can be easily removed.  The Blue Crabs, on their to being Soft Shell Crabs are first known as Peelers and are held in dockside tanks accompanied by a fellow who
monitors their progress toward squeezing out of those tight shells.  We stayed overnight at the dock, a quiet spot until ducks, osprey, song birds, and cicadas began the morning chorus.

Ship John Shoal Light, Delaware Bay

Cantler's for Dinner

Cantler's Dock

A Blue Crab Peeler at Cantler's

By this time, we were monitoring hurricane Dorian's wicked ways.  We took a mooring in Spa Creek (edge of Annapolis and Eastport, Maryland) for a few days, my favorite spot around here.  We have a one minute dinghy ride to shore where we walk into old neighborhoods, bumpy brick sidewalks, heavily canopied, narrow streets, and splendid gardens.  Downtown, fifteen minutes away, offers high energy people and traffic, great restaurants and shops, and friends Nancy and Paul Jacobs.  They are a former Traverse City teacher and business man (and cruisers!) who now make their home here while running the annual boat shows.  They were generous with their time and friendship!  Today, we are moving to the Annapolis City Marina where we will settle for a few days, monitoring Dorian's effect on the Carolinas and Georgia.   This evening, we will enjoy time with another friend, Deb, whose has been our hostess during Annapolis visits for several decades.   Our plans for the Bahamas are in flux.   It will be important to get reliable information about how cruisers and other visitors  may impact the efforts to clean up and to provide basic needs to residents.   We will do our research.

Annapolis Sunset