 |
| Osprey Launching |
Oxford, MD July 4, 2020
The adventure continues. Somewhere on the Albemarle Sound Calliope's transmission died. It had been a lively mix of sailing and motoring all day, rough seas but manageable. After much investigation, Dietrich invited TowBoat US to tow us into the Alligator River Marina. Due to our powerless situation, we were placed on a face dock closest to the open sea. During the next five days 26-30 knot winds rammed us against the dock. Dietrich found that 26 knots of wind were his limit when trying to push the boat off a piling. The marina was near a quiet highway but far from settlements, roads were two lane with no shoulders (so no chance to bike) and there were no trails for hiking. We read a lot, battled the wind while walking the docks and were happy to find the marina's clean washing machine.
 |
Under tow
|
Finally, weather calmed and we were towed 28 miles to Wanchese, NC, on Roanoke Island. The boat was hauled out, Dietrich replaced the transmission (new one had been delivered before we arrived. The boatyard crew, used to working on huge yachts and fishing boats, claimed they had never seen one so small!). Living on stilts in a boatyard is not a wonderful way to spend time but Wanchese was interesting and people were very friendly.
 |
Fish Butcher Richard of Wanchese, NC
We found seafood markets, admired beautiful yachts and chatted with locals. Dietrich spent some time with a fish butcher who worked long hours into the night each day the charter fisherman were successful. That fellow, Richard, was eager to talk while he worked and gifted us with more than eight pounds of yellowfin tuna. Browned with garlic, lime juice and capers, it was wonderful. The rest made a tuna salad superior to anything we had had so far.
|
 |
Out one day back in the next
|
 |
| Osprey |
 |
| Osprey |
 |
| Virginia Cut |
 |
| Osprey |
 |
| Virginia Cut |
 |
| Osprey |
 |
| Osprey |
Since the Dismal Swamp was still reporting heavy growth of engine intake clogging Duck Weed, we chose to take the Virginia Cut, running east of the Swamp and closer to Nagshead, NC. It meant dealing with several bridges that required openings either on request or waiting for on the hour openings and one lock near Great Bridge, VA. It was a beautiful landscape, mostly wilderness where osprey were abundant and human population was sparse. We were fortunate to find an overnight spot on the Great Bridge free dock. Other boaters and locals fishing from the dock were eager to chat. It was a welcome evening of socially distanced visiting. Dietrich shared some of that yellowfin tuna with our dock neighbors who later sent a glowing email about the meal they enjoyed.
 |
| Great Bridge, VA at Dawn |
 |
| Norfolk and Southern RR Bridge with traffic |
Traveling through the Norfolk area was quite satisfying, as always. The US Navy has a strong presence, magnificent and quite interesting.
 |
Carriers Ford and Stennis in Norfolk
|
 |
Yorktown Bridge
|
We headed up the York River to Yorktown for several nights of good anchorage and 3 days of touring. Yorktown was like a neat, crispy Greenfield Village! There was a small area of shops, several restaurants and a busy beach area. Although many of the historic tours and indoor sites were closed, we were easily entertained for three days with hiking and self guided tours through neighborhoods of historic homes. What a great stop!
 |
Calliope at Yorktown
|
We did not use the huge, iron moorings in the Yorktown Harbor. They would have damaged our hull. These moorings might be surplus, though empty, sea mine cases from the navy weapons facility upstream.
 |
Boat Moorings at Yorktown
|
 |
| Calliope at Yorktown |
 |
Osprey
|
We anchored in Deltaville and at Solomon Island as we headed north in Chesapeake Bay. We wiggled into Fishing Bay and Back Creek where overnights tended to be quiet. Most evenings long lines of geese paddled by, grumbling chirped messages to each other, probably about staying in line and keeping up. Sunsets have been stunning.
 |
San Domingo Creek
Continuing north, we headed for Maryland's Eastern shore, an area that seems to call to us. We sailed up the Choptank River, then Broad Creek and into San Domingo Creek where we anchored four nights. We were awakened in early mornings by the watermen in their Chesapeake Deadrise boats, tending their trot lines (baited to collect blue crab). We were surrounded by old plantations and sprawling vacation homes. Huge screened porches sprouted from nearly every house, often several at ground level and upper stories. Evenings were quiet except for ospreys, herons, and geese doing their end-of-day chats. One evening, someone across the water began to play a clarinet. It was simple practice scales at first, then light, jazzy riffs. The water's surface was flat and even the birds listened.
|
 |
Oxford, MD
Across the Choptank and into the Tred Avon River took us to Oxford, MD. Somewhere along the way, after successfully avoiding the crab pots and tot lines for three previous trips, we hooked one. Suddenly, while the sails were full and drawing, we were not going anywhere! Within a few minutes two watermen showed up to help with untangling. They were gracious and good natured, saying that happened every now and then, especially when wind was up. Dietrich was ready to dive in since the line and chain were not falling away but the watermen reminded him of the jellyfish. Swimming is not seen in deep water around the Chesapeake because, as the watermen said, "Those jellyfish will tear you up." Instead, some finessing of lines with boat hooks and a wind change allowed the gear to be freed. There is still a rope wound around our rudder post but it will come off when we haul out in Annapolis. The rest of the day was lovely! We are currently anchored in Towne Creek, a 2 minute dinghy ride to a little free dock. The dock takes us into a shaded old neighborhood of neat southern homes with spectacular gardens and bumpy, brick sidewalks. Dietrich rode the bike to Easton one day, to visit a friend. We took the ferry across the Tred Avon yesterday, just for fun. It has been running that route since 1683! I have walked for hours along these streets, daydreaming about what it would be like to have the lush garden options this climate allows. As has been true all along the coast, the air is fragranced with magnolias and gardenias and roses and mint and rosemary and lavender....
|
Oxford's fence painting project
 |
| Oxford, MD |
We are still planning to haul out in Annapolis due to the Erie Canal's questionable opening schedule and since we cannot go back through Canada. Next week we will prep Calliope for truck travel, then we will rent a car and head to Traverse City. This hot weather (95 humid, sometimes buggy, degrees and our boat fans move air but do not cool it) is less than fun. We are dragging our feet not our anchor, with regard to heading across the Bay to cities and highways and crowds of masked people. We will post the last blog entry when we have left this floating home and have returned to our other home and the comfort of good neighbors and friends.
