Thursday, October 1, 2020

final post 2020






 September,  2020.   Traverse City, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula,  Londolyn Terrace, at the dining room table overlooking the back yard and meadow on a chilly, blustery day.  Rolling gray clouds are threatening in the north but the sun still shines on the last of the roses.      

We had a hard time leaving Oxford, Maryland.  We ate as much sweet crabmeat as was practical, stocked the refrigerator with fabulous strawberries and peaches.  Anticipating departure was terrible.  It meant the end was way too near.  Dietrich was awake most of the night.  We had a beautiful sail across the Tred Avon and Choptank Rivers.  Crossing the Chesapeake was fast, under threat of high winds and a storm.  We made it to Annapolis and mooring #46 (3rd trip to that one, first was on the way home in 2009, then last fall 2019) in Spa Creek with no glitches.   We spent time walking familiar and charming neighborhoods, wearing masks and using the offered hand cleaners in shops.  Loved every minute!   Often had iced coffee (and fabulous lemon bundt cake) in the garden at Brown Mustache Coffee,  admired shops on Maryland Street.  We had a five second dinghy ride (we could almost push off Calliope and float over) to the little dinghy dock that lead to a gorgeous old neighborhood and a ten minute walk into the main harbor area.  We do like Annapolis!  



A motor to Eastport (20 min. south) and Bert Jabin's Yachtyard came too soon.  We prepped for haul out and the truck transport to Michigan.  It was 95 degrees at the overnight dock, then we spent four days on stilts in the yard while we removed everything (Everything!) from the decks.  Dietrich did most of that work while I organized packing for our road trip, laundered, prepped meals and told jokes.  We took one evening off to enjoy a visit from Deb,  a friend who lived nearby.  The Covid-19 cautions at the boatyard were very strict.  All staff wore masks, some used gloves, indoor washroom/laundry facilities were cleaned twice daily and included signs that left no questions about expectations for consideration of others and general safety.   Eventually, we rented a car and headed to Michigan.  We took our own linens (one night in a motel) and packed a cooler for food.   The drive through western Maryland was beautiful.   The thrill of the trip, however, was a big stocking-up stop at Trader Joe's in Ann Arbor where easy virus rules were in place.  

 


Arrival at home on July 13th was a lukewarm experience.  Sooe, our beloved cat, was wary at first but eventually warmed to our presence.  Our house sitter (Sooe's best friend) had not yet made plans to move out.  He thought we might be able to share the house for a while, but virus cautions made that impractical.  Most of his belongings were still in the house and some projects were in progress in the driveway.   Back in early March, we shared the decision to be home by mid July.  After all the hot, busy days in the boatyard, we were looking forward to a real bed and the familiar surroundings.  Instead, we slept in a tent in the backyard for ten days.  Dietrich needed access to his office and darkroom so we took over that area of the house while the main floor belonged to Sooe and his best friend.   Finally, we rented a storage unit for the house sitter's belongings then helped him move to a newly available condo.  We began the work of sorting boat gear and unpackig the two rooms where we had stored many of our personal belongings.  After a year on a 34' sailboat,  the house seemed too big.   Now, in September, we feel more settled but are determined to make  more donations to the Women's Resource Center!  


         




Catching up with friends here at home has been a wonderful but slow process.  While we received  positive comments about our virus related habits as we floated along the east coast, we have encountered a range of opinions about how we should live our lives on land.  We value well informed and respectful discussion but the virus situation seems to bring out strong emotions.   Since Dietrich's work often requires him to travel,  he has had to adapt some new strategies to keep himself,  our household and our friends safe.   It is our hope that, when the virus is under better control (and those masks are better designed!)  the stresses will begin to heal.   In the meantime,  we are finding ways to remember our eye-opening year on the water.  We are trying to keep In-the-Moment tasks from robbing us of time to ponder the experience.   Bowls of newly collected shells live on the coffee table.   Regular communication from cruisers we met along the way has helped...our shared experiences give all of us a special connection that we will strive to keep alive.  Who knows what lies ahead?  Some of us may meet again on the Trent Severn Canal in Canada,  tied to a dock in NYC,  at a little marina in the backwaters of Georgia, in an anchorage tucked behind a rocky island in the Bahamas...or maybe our guest room will be full more often.   We will share the dune trails and Lake Michigan's clear water with cruisers who were skeptical about our glowing tales of Northern Michigan.  Here is, at least occasionally, to living like someone left the gate open!








Saturday, July 4, 2020

July 4, 2020 Oxford, MD



Osprey Launching

Oxford, MD July 4, 2020

The adventure continues.  Somewhere on the Albemarle Sound Calliope's transmission died.   It had been a lively mix of sailing and motoring all day, rough seas but manageable.   After much investigation,  Dietrich invited TowBoat US to tow us into the Alligator River Marina.  Due to our powerless situation, we were placed on a face dock closest to the open sea.  During the next five days  26-30 knot winds rammed us against the dock.  Dietrich found that 26 knots of wind were his limit when trying to push the boat off a piling.   The marina was near a quiet highway but far from settlements, roads were two lane with no shoulders (so no chance to bike) and there were no trails for hiking.  We read a lot, battled the wind while walking the docks and were happy to find the marina's clean washing machine. 




Under tow

Finally,  weather calmed and we were towed 28 miles to Wanchese, NC, on Roanoke Island.  The boat was hauled out, Dietrich replaced the transmission (new one had been delivered before we arrived.  The boatyard crew, used to working on huge yachts and fishing boats, claimed they had never seen one so small!).   Living on stilts in a boatyard is not a wonderful way to spend time but Wanchese was interesting and people were very friendly. 
Fish Butcher Richard of Wanchese, NC

We found seafood markets, admired beautiful yachts and chatted with locals.  Dietrich spent some time with a fish butcher who worked long hours into the night each day the charter fisherman were successful.  That fellow, Richard, was eager to talk while he worked and gifted us with more than eight pounds of yellowfin tuna.   Browned with garlic, lime juice and capers, it was wonderful.  The rest made a tuna salad superior to anything we had had so far.

Out one day back in the next

Osprey

Osprey

Virginia Cut

Osprey

Virginia Cut

Osprey

Osprey
 
 Since the Dismal Swamp was still reporting heavy growth of engine intake clogging Duck Weed,  we chose to take the Virginia Cut, running east of the Swamp and closer to Nagshead, NC.   It meant dealing with several bridges that required openings either on request or waiting for on the hour openings and one lock near Great Bridge, VA.   It was a beautiful landscape, mostly wilderness where osprey were abundant and human population was sparse.   We were fortunate to find an overnight spot on the Great Bridge free dock.  Other boaters and locals fishing from the dock were eager to chat.   It was a welcome evening of socially distanced visiting.  Dietrich shared some of that yellowfin tuna with our dock neighbors who later sent a glowing email about the meal they enjoyed.

Great Bridge, VA at Dawn

Norfolk and Southern RR Bridge with traffic

Traveling through the Norfolk area was quite satisfying, as always.  The US Navy has a strong presence, magnificent and quite interesting. 

 
Carriers Ford and Stennis  in Norfolk

Yorktown Bridge

We headed up the York River to Yorktown for several nights of good anchorage and 3 days of touring.   Yorktown was like a neat, crispy Greenfield Village!  There was a small area of shops, several restaurants and a busy beach area.  Although many of the historic tours and indoor sites were closed, we were easily entertained for three days with hiking and self guided tours through neighborhoods of historic homes.   What a great stop! 

Calliope at Yorktown

 We did not use the huge, iron moorings in the Yorktown Harbor.  They would have damaged our hull.  These moorings might be surplus, though empty, sea mine cases from the navy weapons facility upstream.

Boat Moorings at Yorktown

Calliope at Yorktown

Osprey

 We anchored in Deltaville and at Solomon Island as we headed north in  Chesapeake Bay.   We wiggled into Fishing Bay and Back Creek where overnights tended to be quiet.  Most evenings long lines of geese paddled by, grumbling chirped messages to each other, probably about staying in line and keeping up.  Sunsets have been stunning.

San Domingo Creek

Continuing north, we headed for Maryland's Eastern shore, an area that seems to call to us.  We sailed up the Choptank River, then Broad Creek and into San Domingo Creek where we anchored four nights.  We were awakened in early mornings by the watermen in their Chesapeake Deadrise boats, tending their trot lines (baited to collect blue crab).   We were surrounded by old plantations and sprawling vacation homes.  Huge screened porches sprouted from nearly every house,  often several at ground level and upper stories.  Evenings were quiet except for ospreys, herons,  and geese doing their end-of-day chats.  One evening, someone across the water began to play a clarinet.  It was simple practice scales at first, then light, jazzy riffs.  The water's surface was flat and even the birds listened. 

Oxford, MD

Across the Choptank and into the Tred Avon River took us to Oxford, MD.  Somewhere along the way,  after successfully avoiding the crab pots and tot lines for three previous trips,  we hooked one.  Suddenly,  while the sails were full and drawing, we were not going anywhere!  Within a few minutes two watermen showed up to help with untangling.  They were gracious and good natured, saying that happened every now and then, especially when wind was up.  Dietrich was ready to dive in since the line and chain were not falling away but the watermen reminded him of the jellyfish.  Swimming is not seen in deep water around the Chesapeake because, as the watermen  said, "Those jellyfish will tear you up."  Instead, some finessing of lines with boat hooks and a wind change allowed the gear to be freed.  There is still a rope wound around our rudder post but it will come off when we haul out in Annapolis.   The rest of the day was lovely!  We are currently anchored in Towne Creek, a 2 minute dinghy ride to a little free dock.   The dock takes us into a shaded old neighborhood of neat southern homes with spectacular gardens and bumpy, brick sidewalks.   Dietrich rode the bike to Easton one day, to visit a friend.  We took the ferry across the Tred Avon yesterday, just for fun.  It has been running that route since 1683!  I have walked for hours along these streets, daydreaming about what it would be like to have the lush garden options this climate allows.  As has been true all along the coast,  the air is fragranced with magnolias and gardenias and  roses and mint and rosemary and lavender....


 Oxford's fence painting project

Oxford, MD

We are still planning to haul out in Annapolis due to the Erie Canal's questionable opening schedule and since we cannot go back through Canada.  Next week we will prep Calliope for truck travel, then we will rent a car and head to Traverse City.  This hot weather (95 humid, sometimes buggy, degrees and our boat fans move air but do not cool it) is less than fun. We are dragging our feet not our anchor, with regard to heading across the Bay to cities and highways and crowds of masked people.  We will post the last blog entry when we have left this floating home and have returned to our other home and the comfort of good neighbors and friends.









Sunday, June 14, 2020

June 12, 2020 Belhaven, North Carolina

Needham’s Skimmer Dragonfly

June 12, 2020 Belhaven,  North Carolina

We moved along the S.C. ICW for days, anchoring in Little Tom's Creek, Herb Creek, Broad Creek, Wright River and Shelter Cove.  Through big rains, 25-30 knot winds and lightning we hunkered down near Turtle Island.  Dietrich cued up The Turtle Island Quartet, we watched bread rise, caught up on the news feeds and enjoyed a dry cabin, not a leak to be found.  Later, we passed through a double bascule bridge whose one leaf did not open.  The operator informed us beforehand so we were ever so careful.  The following photo shows the sailboat that did not heed the warning.  The mast and much of the rigging is gone, repairs underway.   The general rule is that someone should always be on deck and watching the path...

Mastless after collision with bridge span

The second span was not opening

From Shelter Cove, we dinghied into the Hilton Head Marina.  We enjoyed a short dinghy to tug visit with Tim, Ramie and Ringo on Miss Norma, a bonus we did not expect.  We spent time with them last fall and thought they would be gone by now.  As for so many people, Covid-19 changed their plans.  They are selling that beautiful Ranger tug, heading for Washington and a new phase of life.  Back at our anchorage,  a huge, grunting, burping manatee poked around the boat, accompanied by many dolphins who were out for leaping and splashing fun.  A repeat anchorage at Skull Creek was beautiful then on to Beaufort, S.C., a favorite location we enjoyed last fall.  We took a mooring near the dinghy dock and felt comfortable using the marina facilities that were well maintained and easy to negotiate with social distancing in mind.   Walking the old neighborhoods and through the Spring gardens was good entertainment, as always.   We found that attitudes toward masks and social distancing around town were troublesome.  We encountered snears and rude comments along the main street and harbor walk.  Our favorite book store, Nevermore, required masks and provided hand cleaner at the door.  Farther north, we anchored in the S. Edisto River after four hours of battling big, slow, biting flies.  We had two swatters in action and eliminated more than 80 flies.  We celebrated the next morning by breaking the cold cereal tradition.  Cheesy grits, eggs and five shrimp left from dinner were just what we needed to tackle more flies.  They seemed more aggressive, getting under our hats, between sunglasses and eyes, dive-bombing into legs and arms.  We tried to keep count of the the kills but know we missed some during particularly tense parts of the siege.   We counted 776 dead flies.  By the time we reached the anchorage in Georgetown, S.C. we had broken both swatters.  Dietrich bought four more.

Southern horse fly

Low-country sunset

Beaufort SC live oak

Magnolia blossom

Still life with live oak

Fresh SC shrimp

Beaufort, SC 

Beaufort, SC 

SC storm
Georgetown, S.C. was an easy, pleasant stop.  Walking the neighborhoods was satisfying, the architecture and landscaping beautiful.  Many of the downtown shops were closed due to virus concerns, but the ice cream shop was open.  The staff kept surfaces cleaned, masks were worn and we took advantage!  An icy dish of ice cream on a hot, humid day is just (as my mother would have said) the Bees' Knees.

Georgetown, SC
The Waccamaw River has always been a pleasure to experience.  We anchored near Butler Is. with nesting osprey and fish jumping as if they were being chased.  Due to storms in the north, the river was at flood stage and flowing south at 3 knots.  It meant our progress was quite slow so we stayed there another day to let the flood ease.

Waccamaw River, SC

Waccamaw River, SC with nesting osprey
Flooding was an issue for the next day, slow progress but through beautiful country.  The rice fields and Spring foliage were spectacular.  Wasps took the place of flies for a while.  Dietrich killed one that was about 2" long.  No kidding!  Flooded Prince Creek was a side trip worth the time, every shade of Spring green was tucked into the surrounding forests.  The long stretch through the Myrtle Beach ditch was crowded with rented Jet skies and fast power boats.  Police boats were out attempting to keep wakes down since docks and homes along the way were already flooded.

Prince Creek, SC

Prince Creek, SC

Osprey pair on Red 8

Prince Creek turtles

Waccamaw osprey
In the Myrtle Beach area...
Socastee River flooding

Socastee River flooding

Socastee River flooding
We had stayed on our anchor or, occasionally, on a mooring every night since April 16th.  The Southport Marina beckoned as we came near and Calliope moved to a slip.  Oh joy.  The facilities were clean and provisioned with anti-virus supplies.  The area was new to us so we spent hours walking.  The gardens were worth the effort.  On to Wrightsville Beach where our anchorage was excellent.  That community has provided good dinghy docks, foot showers just off the ocean beaches and plenty of beach and downtown benches for lounging.  We shared a pint of ice cream on a bench at the beach, a fairly safe place to observe the crowd (social distancing was not in evidence).  It is likely to be the last open ocean beach we see on this trip so we spent some time walking the water's edge where few people were hanging out.  Dietrich took a dinghy ride to the seafood purveyor for fresh shrimp and Dark and Stormy rum drinks completed a fine dinner on board.  The evening's entertainment was several hours of wild jet skis and small boats zooming around the bay.  It was a  young party crowd, no overtly rude behavior, lots of waving as they passed, just having one of those fun, blow out times we all savor. 

The next day was long and slow but ended at Mile Hammock (Camp LeJeune, N.C.) where there were only six boats.  There were a few noisy booms near by but no other military maneuvers as the evening progressed.   Beaufort (pronounced Bow-fort) N.C. was next, a good anchorage on Taylor Creek near town dinghy docks and a park.  We were able to meet Paul and Laurie Welser under an open pavillion near the water.  We enjoyed wine, snacks, pizza and hours of talk.  It was marvelous to socialize with people we know and with whom we have so much in common.   We had one more visit the next day (they kindly did some shopping for us) and several long walks in the older part of town.  The Old Burying Grounds were fascinating.  We left with a jar of Laurie's mango salsa, a score!

Beaufort, NC with the Welsers

Beaufort, NC with the Welsers


These Martin houses were made from Igloo Coolers.   Easy to clean and the birds seemed pleased.

Martin houses in Beaufort, NC
We made a late start from Beaufort because the anchor chain was wrapped around something metal that would not give way.  Dietrich worked on it for at least 20 minutes, coming close to diving down to investigate, before it popped loose.

The trip to Oriental was great.  The Neuse River was lively, dolphins were playful and we snagged one of the free city docks.  Dietrich's sister asked me what made Oriental attractive.  I told her that it is a village on a huge river near an inlet to the sea.  It floods at every full moon high tide and is often the target of hurricanes.  It is covered with big, old houses and new, elegant houses, all raised 8-10 feet in hopes of avoiding frequent flood water.  It has The Bean across the street from the public dock where coffee, goodies and friendly porch conversation with locals can be had, masks and social distancing included.  There is a classy art gallery and a dress shop where customers hang out on the deep, open porch to chat about local politics and business.  There is good bicycling and walking.  Magnolias and gardenias are in full bloom and walls of honeysuckle are everywhere.  The air smells sweet.  Hot, fragrant waves of it can nearly bowl you over.  The shrimp boats clog the harbor and they come in many colors with  names like Mrs. O'Malley, LornaMae,  JoshuaLee,  LindaLou, BerthaBell and ShelbyJane.    Our first stop was at Halloween in 2008, this fourth stop may not be our last.  We like the vibe.

It rained off and on as we headed to Belhaven, N.C.    After long weeks of motoring, we sailed for hours along the big Neuse, Pamlico and Pungo Rivers.  Winds were often 20-25 knots and Captain Dietrich was very happy.   We are at the city dock today, no facilities but nice to be attached.  Tomorrow, onward to Albemarle Sound.  Still aiming to be home in Traverse City by mid July.  In the meantime,  hearing about your days would be welcome.  We wish you good health,  Annie and Dietrich Floeter           annie.floeter@yahoo.com