November 2019 Near Cumberland Island, Georgia In the hazy distance a fine-boned sculpture began to take shape. It was a Degaussing Range. Submarines pass through them to be demagnetized, making them less detectable. Incongruous technology popped out of the otherwise wild, unpopulated surroundings.
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| Degaussing Facility, King's Bay USN |
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Vero Beach Mooring field, Calliope up front
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Several miles after a rough inlet crossing we bucked into Florida’s waters with opposing wind and tidal currents. Two of three marinas in Fernandina Beach were still closed for major repairs and wrecked boats were scattered along the shores. Hurricane Florence (Fall, 2018) left the area in a tangle. St. Augustine was a cold, gusty, wet stop on a mooring. It was a good time to catch up on paperwork, but everything in the cabin felt damp and sticky with salt air. A cool, sunny day gave us a chance to enjoy the historic city, especially the architecture and the old Spanish fort, Castillo San Marco. We were happy to find the Irish Sail Lady still in business! She repaired a problem with our cockpit enclosure, doing the same expert work we remembered when we met her in 2008.
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Near Shellbluff Creek, GA
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Across from Home sound, a short walk
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Near Hobe Sound
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| Vero Beach city street |
As backpackers and sailors, we have a long history of casual bird watching. Water birds have always entertained us, but pelicans have displayed the best sense of showmanship. They fly fast, skim the surface, loop high, then dive beak first, slamming into the water. We watched seven of them crash-dive, one after the other, water exploding in the sunlight, their pouches filling with goodies. At rest, in the water or perched along the walls at bridges, their long beaks are tucked neatly, they are smiling and distinguished.
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Great Egret
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| Great Egret balancing |
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A rowdy bunch
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Lately, Calliope awakes in the dead of night for a tune up. At varying levels, lines and shrouds buzz, beat, hum, zing and squeak. Anchor lines chime in if the currents are right. No amount of tinkering has stopped the performance. We have a contemporary string quartet on board!
The ICW (Intra Coastal Waterway) is generally well marked and dredged, but narrow. Boats passing each other must take care to stay in boundaries, then adjust speed to avoid big wakes and being run aground. Most of the time, we have friendly radio communication with power boaters coming from behind. The captain calls, “Calliope, we will pass to port if that works for you.” We reply, “Thanks, we will cut speed,” That gives the passing boat an opportunity for a slow pass with a manageable wake. There is usually waving from everyone (especially if there are children on board) and our response, “Thanks for the slow pass, have a good trip.” Large boats coming from the other direction usually slow down before they pass, accompanied by more waving. It is a safe, friendly procedure. However, we are beginning to encounter less interest in safety or civility. Boats come forward at full speed throwing huge wakes that slam us in all directions. We try to steer into them but at the risk of being thrown out of the dredged path. Recently, a boat chose to pass at full speed between Calliope and a small fishing boat. Dietrich managed to keep us under control but we were well past the waterman before we could check his safety. The fast boat’s captain leaned out as he passed, raised an arm and hollered, “What’s your problem?” Thankfully, his attitude is in the minority on this watery ribbon, but it is troubling.
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| Night Heron, Vero Beach |
Late on November 27th, we anchored on Lake Worth near West Palm Beach. Dave and Tammy Hollis (Traverse City friends and sailors who live south half the year) hosted us for the next four days, providing a real bed, hot showers with fat towels, laundry facilities that did not require quarters, their loving dog, Oakley, fabulous food adventures and wonderful company. Dave found a sailing club where our dinghy could be safe and loaned a car for major provisioning forays. I explored every display at Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s! Thanksgiving Day began with a table surrounded by eight neighbors and friends. Dave and Tammy presented a beautiful brunch. Later, we visited another neighbor’s home where we shared the table with eleven people from Texas, Colorado, Michigan and New York. It was another fine feast representing some of the holiday traditions from each of our families, as well as great respect and talent for food well prepared. We were warmly welcomed and enjoyed every minute (and morsel!).
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| Oakley Hollis in repose |
After hours of stashing provisions for the Bahamas (and cataloging locations) we headed south on December 2nd. Dietrich negotiated fifteen lift bridges over thirty miles in eight hours. Some opened on request, most opened on schedules. We had radio contact with the bridge tenders as we entered and departed each location. We had to wait for all but one opening, idling, circling and staying clear of other boats in line. I wrote holiday notes all day, popping on deck to provide breaks and food for the captain. We gawked at spectacular landscaping, homes and storm damage lining the canal. Anchoring was near Pompano Beach, in the Hillsboro Inlet. It was much closer to the open ocean than I anticipated! We had modest wakes and grumbling from the anchor chain throughout the night, but woke to a clear sunrise to begin the off shore sail to Miami. I do mean sail! We had not had the main sail up since time on the Chesapeake Bay. It was freeing and lively, a good change.
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Hillsboro Inlet Lighthouse
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Kennedy Space Center, a controlled brush fire
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| A car carrier error |
Tonight, December 3rd, we are anchored near the Venetian Causeway in South Miami Beach. The city skyline is a mix of quirky shapes and colors, architecture that sparks our imaginations. We hope to spend at least a full day running last-chance-before-the-Bahamas errands, eating great Cuban food and walking the Art Deco neighborhoods. We will determine when and where to cross over the Gulf Steam as weather conditions allow. We are rooting for soon. May your holidays be dandy!
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South Miami Beach Deco on Ocean Dr
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South Miami Beach Deco on Ocean Dr
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Miami sunset from the cockpit
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| Miami sunset after glow |
